Next roll the seam roller over the seam back and forth in the direction of the seam directly over the seam. Don't press too hard. Presssing too hard may cause the seam to gap.
One of my tricks to a good seam is to slightly lift the back of the seam iron up to keep the carpet off the seam tape after it has been smoothly slid over the "tape" than using my hand and pressing the carpet onto the seam tape from the "weight tray" towards the back of the seam iron. Doing this is a good way to make sure the carpet does not overlap or gap. A good seam does not peak from over heating and doen not havegaps or overlapping.
One of my tricks to a good seam is to slightly lift the back of the seam iron up to keep the carpet off the seam tape after it has been smoothly slid over the "tape" than using my hand and pressing the carpet onto the seam tape from the "weight tray" towards the back of the seam iron. Doing this is a good way to make sure the carpet does not overlap or gap. A good seam does not peak from over heating and doen not havegaps or overlapping.Here I am checking to make sure the two pieces are close together and the red line on the seam tape is lined up center with the seam. This is also a way to tell if you are ready to move the iron. Leaving the iron in place too long will burn the seam tape and it will stick to the padding.
Let the seam iron heat the seam tape until you can move the iron the length of the iron, it should "slide smoothly. If not the tape isn't melted enough. Have your seam roller and you tool tray ready for this step. 
While you are setting up your two pieces of carpet plug in the seam iron and set the heat adjustment on slightly higher than two (2). The heat dial has a range from one(1) up to four(4),four being the hottest. When the red indicater light goes off, you are ready to set the iron in place. For beginners, I suggest leaving the dial on 2 1/2. That way you can move slowly without over heating the backing of the carpet. Over heating will cause seam"peaking". The cooler the better, but the seamtape still has to melt. So BE CAREFULL! Hot silicone Burns.
Next, gently pull back the carpet at the seam and center a piece of seam tape pre cut to the length of the seam. Notice the red line on the seam tape. That is the center line of your seam.
Make sure both pieces of carpet line up close together. When both pieces lay together ,the backings of each should touch.
Make sure both pieces of carpet line up close together. When both pieces lay together ,the backings of each should touch.
Here is a sample of what I mean when I reffer to a relief cut. Where the two pieces come together is where the seam will end. This is ready to seam. When I cut the fill piece,the one edge was straight edged and in the picture I cut the other piece.
While laying out the carpet, you will want to make sure the carpet is lond enough on all sides ,then use you carpet knife to cut relief cuts. Relief cuts help when making your seams. It makes the carpet easier to move into place and lay flat. A fill piece that lays flat and is close as possible to exact size makes for a smoother seam.
While straight edging, be sure not to cut off the nap. Cutting off the nap will make it look as though there is a gap in the seam. The way to do this is to pull back on the knife so it does not cut to deep.
Carpet Tiles
Find everything you need to know about Carpet Tiles
I measured the area to be filled. Then cut the piece three (3")inches larger than needed. Carpet has a direction in the nap (the nap is the direction of the pile), Be sure all the carpet is running the same way. You can tell this by running your hand over the carpet, if the carpet pile stands up in one direction and lays down in another, than the carpet needs to be turned around.
While laying out the carpet, you will want to make sure the carpet is lond enough on all sides ,then use you carpet knife to cut relief cuts. Relief cuts help when making your seams. It makes the carpet easier to move into place and lay flat. A fill piece that lays flat and is close as possible to exact size makes for a smoother seam. While straight edging, be sure not to cut off the nap. Cutting off the nap will make it look as though there is a gap in the seam. The way to do this is to pull back on the knife so it does not cut to deep.Carpet TilesFind everything you need to know about Carpet Tiles
I measured the area to be filled. Then cut the piece three (3")inches larger than needed. Carpet has a direction in the nap (the nap is the direction of the pile), Be sure all the carpet is running the same way. You can tell this by running your hand over the carpet, if the carpet pile stands up in one direction and lays down in another, than the carpet needs to be turned around.
Before a seam can be made the edges need to staight edged.
Most tools used in this post are Orcon. http://fcisd.orcon.com/
The pad is in and now it is time to roll out the carpet. since the room is 13"(feet) wide and most carpet rolls come in either 12",15",or 13.2"(feet), I will have a seam.
This is what the tack strip should look like. Some installers will lay two rows of tack strip down around areas that might cause problems when it comes time to stretch the carpet in. I chose the one row method.
Now that the tack strip is installed, it is time for the rebond padding. In my expierence, 1/2 inch 8 pound rebond padding gives you the best insulation value, will last the longest and feels good to walk on.
Measure the room. In this case the room is 13'x27', most padding comes in a widths of 6', so it was decided to roll out the pad the 27 foot lenght and "fill" the width.
If you notice in the picture, the padding should be cut just along the tack strip. Once the padding is all layed out, the next step is to duct tape any seams that are in the pad. As in the following picture. To keep the padding from moving around I like to use spray adhesive, Camie 363 High strength Fast tack.
http://www.camie.com/
The pad is in and now it is time to roll out the carpet. since the room is 13"(feet) wide and most carpet rolls come in either 12",15",or 13.2"(feet), I will have a seam.
This is what the tack strip should look like. Some installers will lay two rows of tack strip down around areas that might cause problems when it comes time to stretch the carpet in. I chose the one row method.
The first step. remove all furniture ,debris and tools from the area to be carpeted. Then lay out enough tack strip to follow the whole perrimeter of the room. Cut the pieces to fit about 3/4" from the wall (in this case the home owner did not install the base board, so for ease of ever having to pull the carpet up in the future, I left it the 3/4" distance.
A hammer drill with a 5/32" masonry drill bit is needed to drill holes every six to eight inches thru the "strip" and the concrete.One inch aluminum concrete "plugs" are used to fasten the"strip" to the concret
e.
A hammer drill with a 5/32" masonry drill bit is needed to drill holes every six to eight inches thru the "strip" and the concrete.One inch aluminum concrete "plugs" are used to fasten the"strip" to the concret
e.
Now that the tack strip is installed, it is time for the rebond padding. In my expierence, 1/2 inch 8 pound rebond padding gives you the best insulation value, will last the longest and feels good to walk on.
Measure the room. In this case the room is 13'x27', most padding comes in a widths of 6', so it was decided to roll out the pad the 27 foot lenght and "fill" the width.If you notice in the picture, the padding should be cut just along the tack strip. Once the padding is all layed out, the next step is to duct tape any seams that are in the pad. As in the following picture. To keep the padding from moving around I like to use spray adhesive, Camie 363 High strength Fast tack.
http://www.camie.com/ 
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